When Kris Van Assche took over Dior Homme at a quite tender age, the linkage between a giant fashion power house for menswear and rock n’ roll cold turkey vanished and gradually a new marriage of sophisticated French menswear and well rehearsed symphony became favorably celebrated. Van Assche’s religiously guarded attitude toward simplicity might not favor many Hedi Slimane’s hardcore fans, but he is still the head designer for Dior Homme, which means he must be doing things right.
The newly showcased collection from Van Assche for Dior Homme is somewhat surprising, and people can even see denim on the runway. If you see a pair of jeans on the runway, there must have been something really wrong unless it is a Dior Homme Show. While many other designers went for a bubbly and happy winter, Van Assche was still working around with uniform liked pieces. However, those dots and stitched-on patterns are stunning without being excessively overwhelming. The whole collection is still filled with enough fun military themes. Comparing to previous two F/W collections, this collection is like a throwback to when Van Assche first took control of the label and a little bit more Slimanish in a Van Assche way, somewhat rugged and slender. Very interesting on the eyes, and definitely something special on the bodies.