Kris Van Assche is a stubborn visionary romantic! When I first saw those flower pins from the backstage, I was incredibly disturbed. Is Mr. Van Assche pushing too far? However, when the curtain was finally peeled away and Dior-look models walked down the stage, everything worked out.
As usual, Mr. Van Assche translated his attitudes toward sportswear so well into this sophisticated collection. He did his homework well and blended his respect to Mr. Christian Dior subtly and flatteringly – Mr. Christian Dior is an avid gardening enthusiast. Very classic French luxury. It is different from those heavy fabrics and flamboyant patterns people can find from Italian fashion houses, it is also different from those chic and brave designs from rising British menswear, and it is Dior Homme, one and only in this world.
Even though, Mr. Van Assche was a long time assistant to Dior Homme’s previous creative director, Hedi Slimane and there is a decades-long story between Dior and Saint Laurent, Mr. Van Assche successfully parted his own interpretation of the label from his teacher. People might see resemblance between Dior Homme and Saint Laurent Paris Menswear, but once you read into the designs, the only thing sharing between Dior Homme and Saint Laurent Paris is that they are both French luxury. Other than that, Dior Homme is unique and unreachable for Van Assche’s sportive and sophisticated design language.
Topman has been growing along with London Collections:Men, only becoming stronger and better, emmm, maybe just better-looking. Doesn’t those heavy long coats remind us of something from Burberry Prorsum? Look at those jumpsuits! Aren’t they a tribute to Moschino blended with some Versace? Maybe even a bit Dsquare? Look at those suits! Are they just copies of Dior Homme with lesser quality materials? And there is a touch of Saint Laurent everywhere! Maybe just because they are using some of the same models who have been walking for Hedi. Lastly, look at those checks at the end? Comme des Garçon?
After all, Topman may still just be a high-street fashion store around the corner that collects recent fashion school graduates’ overly attituded sketches.
Bold colors, inspired by sports, great silhouettes and always party-ready, Alexander Wang presented us another great collection of versatility and the new chic. Raf Simons and Karl Lagerfeld have refined that sneakers are not just for treadmills and elliptical trainers; but Wang tells us that baseball skirts can be worn outside of the court with confidence.
It was not a huge surprise when Wang was hired by Kering to head Balenciaga. Wang’s sportive attitude fits right into what Nicolas Ghesquière has created for Balenciaga. Even though Wang’s designs are signaturly recognizable, he is doing great to part his own label from what Balenciaga offers. Alexander Wang is much more athletic and, of course, American in the heart.
Some may argue that designers will eventually grow out of the favor and become the history, however, there are so many strong cases arguing that fashion designers are as everlasting as world-class scientists, award-winning authors, and many other big names imprinted in the human history forever. Jil Sander set up another great example to prove this when she returned to her own label.
While the fashion industry is pretty much dominated by British, French, and Italian designers, American and Belgian artists are thriving to make sure people have a taste of waffles and pancakes. However, Germans seem lack the ability to make themselves stand out in this competitive business. Huge Boss became something for teenage brats with parents who are doctors or lawyers. But Jil Sander is about to change the dynamic and put German on the table. Raf Simons was great, however, Jil Sander is simply better. Modest, simple, sportive, powerful, strong, and Sander’s designs are skilled, gifted, and loved.
Heard too much about Hedi Slimane being the revolutionist, however, I was still worshiping Levi’s and Nike when he left Dior Homme. When Slimane crossed Yves off Yves Saint Laurent, he has already succeeded. People started to literally stare at him for some fashion miracles. There are designers who can design beautiful clothing and designers who are born to rein the fashion industry. Slimane’s return to YSL was his declaration to take control of the modern fashion industry, especially mens’ fashion.
While other designers are exploring new territories, Slimane presented another collection quite identical to what he has been known for, skinny tailoring, skinny pants, great leather jackets, and long coats. Even the colors are pretty much the same as the previous F/W collection, however, the whole show was still something intriguing. A wild and rugged luxury. Models walked on the show were not those typical pretty humans, but more like those who have been living on the edge and blessed with weirdness and uniqueness. No matter how ridiculous those pieces look on the deadly skinny models, I am confident that every piece will be very wearable with some attitudes attached.
When Kris Van Assche took over Dior Homme at a quite tender age, the linkage between a giant fashion power house for menswear and rock n’ roll cold turkey vanished and gradually a new marriage of sophisticated French menswear and well rehearsed symphony became favorably celebrated. Van Assche’s religiously guarded attitude toward simplicity might not favor many Hedi Slimane’s hardcore fans, but he is still the head designer for Dior Homme, which means he must be doing things right.
The newly showcased collection from Van Assche for Dior Homme is somewhat surprising, and people can even see denim on the runway. If you see a pair of jeans on the runway, there must have been something really wrong unless it is a Dior Homme Show. While many other designers went for a bubbly and happy winter, Van Assche was still working around with uniform liked pieces. However, those dots and stitched-on patterns are stunning without being excessively overwhelming. The whole collection is still filled with enough fun military themes. Comparing to previous two F/W collections, this collection is like a throwback to when Van Assche first took control of the label and a little bit more Slimanish in a Van Assche way, somewhat rugged and slender. Very interesting on the eyes, and definitely something special on the bodies.
Posted in le style
Tagged Dior, Dior Homme, fashion, fashion week, Hedi Slimane, Kris Van Assche, Life, luxury, Menswear, money, Paris Fashion Week, saint laurent paris, style, YSL
A fashion house worships masculinity even though others are pursuing skinnier and sleeker looks on men. A hybrid of sophistication and ruggedness always wows people and keeps us interested and excited. With the face of Medusa, Ms. Versace presented us another fascinating and fierce red collection. Inspirations of cowboys organically backed each pieces up and provided a solid bone structure of the collection. Cheeky and fun details, such as the horseshoe, the sheriff’s badge, and those neck pieces, gave well-dressed men some fun to play with. It looked sexual and healthy and bubbly wonderful.
Photo courtesy of GQ.com