Tag Archives: Menswear

Dior Homme Autumn/Winter 2015-16

Kris Van Assche is a stubborn visionary romantic! When I first saw those flower pins from the backstage, I was incredibly disturbed. Is Mr. Van Assche pushing too far? However, when the curtain was finally peeled away and Dior-look models walked down the stage, everything worked out.

As usual, Mr. Van Assche translated his attitudes toward sportswear so well into this sophisticated collection. He did his homework well and blended his respect to Mr. Christian Dior subtly and flatteringly – Mr. Christian Dior is an avid gardening enthusiast. Very classic French luxury. It is different from those heavy fabrics and flamboyant patterns people can find from Italian fashion houses, it is also different from those chic and brave designs from rising British menswear, and it is Dior Homme, one and only in this world.

Even though, Mr. Van Assche was a long time assistant to Dior Homme’s previous creative director, Hedi Slimane and there is a decades-long story between Dior and Saint Laurent, Mr. Van Assche successfully parted his own interpretation of the label from his teacher. People might see resemblance between Dior Homme and Saint Laurent Paris Menswear, but once you read into the designs, the only thing sharing between Dior Homme and Saint Laurent Paris is that they are both French luxury. Other than that, Dior Homme is unique and unreachable for Van Assche’s sportive and sophisticated design language.


Jil Sander Menswear F/W 2014: She Still Has It

Some may argue that designers will eventually grow out of the favor and become the history, however, there are so many strong cases arguing that fashion designers are as everlasting as world-class scientists, award-winning authors, and many other big names imprinted in the human history forever. Jil Sander set up another great example to prove this when she returned to her own label.

While the fashion industry is pretty much dominated by British, French, and Italian designers, American and Belgian artists are thriving to make sure people have a taste of waffles and pancakes. However, Germans seem lack the ability to make themselves stand out in this competitive business. Huge Boss became something for teenage brats with parents who are doctors or lawyers. But Jil Sander is about to change the dynamic and put German on the table. Raf Simons was great, however, Jil Sander is simply better. Modest, simple, sportive, powerful, strong, and Sander’s designs are skilled, gifted, and loved.

Saint Laurent Paris Menswear F/W 2014: He Wows People without Trying

Heard too much about Hedi Slimane being the revolutionist, however, I was still worshiping Levi’s and Nike when he left Dior Homme. When Slimane crossed Yves off Yves Saint Laurent, he has already succeeded. People started to literally stare at him for some fashion miracles. There are designers who can design beautiful clothing and designers who are born to rein the fashion industry. Slimane’s return to YSL was his declaration to take control of the modern fashion industry, especially mens’ fashion.

While other designers are exploring new territories, Slimane presented another collection quite identical to what he has been known for, skinny tailoring, skinny pants, great leather jackets, and long coats. Even the colors are pretty much the same as the previous F/W collection, however, the whole show was still something intriguing. A wild and rugged luxury. Models walked on the show were not those typical pretty humans, but more like those who have been living on the edge and blessed with weirdness and uniqueness. No matter how ridiculous those pieces look on the deadly skinny models, I am confident that every piece will be very wearable with some attitudes attached.

Dior Homme F/W 2014: He Shall Return

When Kris Van Assche took over Dior Homme at a quite tender age, the linkage between a giant fashion power house for menswear and rock n’ roll cold turkey vanished and gradually a new marriage of sophisticated French menswear and well rehearsed symphony  became favorably celebrated. Van Assche’s religiously guarded attitude toward simplicity might not favor many Hedi Slimane’s hardcore fans, but he is still the head designer for Dior Homme, which means he must be doing things right.

The newly showcased collection from Van Assche for Dior Homme is somewhat surprising, and people can even see denim on the runway. If you see a pair of jeans on the runway, there must have been something really wrong unless it is a Dior Homme Show. While many other designers went for a bubbly and happy winter, Van Assche was still working around with uniform liked pieces. However, those dots and stitched-on patterns are stunning without being excessively overwhelming. The whole collection is still filled with enough fun military themes. Comparing to previous two F/W collections, this collection is like a throwback to when Van Assche first took control of the label and a little bit more Slimanish in a Van Assche way, somewhat rugged and slender. Very interesting on the eyes, and definitely something special on the bodies.

Versace Menswear F/W 2014: Men On Fire

A fashion house worships masculinity even though others are pursuing skinnier and sleeker looks on men. A hybrid of sophistication and ruggedness always wows people and keeps us interested and excited.  With the face of Medusa, Ms. Versace presented us another fascinating and fierce red collection. Inspirations of cowboys organically backed each pieces up and provided a solid bone structure of the collection. Cheeky and fun details, such as the horseshoe, the sheriff’s badge, and those neck pieces, gave well-dressed men some fun to play with. It looked sexual and healthy and bubbly wonderful.

Photo courtesy of GQ.com

Burberry Prorsum Menswear F/W 2014: He Went There and Will Not Come Back

Christopher Bailey with a dual title of CEO and CCO is definitely the master mind behind Burberry to rein the fashion industry. From a classic trench coat manufacturer to be horribly doomed by the chav stereotype, Burberry survived and got revolutionized under Bailey’s hands to become somewhat a fashion muse. Now, the whole brand is thriving to climb to the top.

Bailey has been conventional with his F/W collections, heavy coats, great tailored suits, and chunky knitwear keeping those good old Britishness intact. For the last F/W collection, Bailey went a little further and used loads of amazing animal prints, which was splendid. His attitudes toward colorful springs and summers sometimes worked and sometimes did not work well, however, who said colors are only for warm temperatures? Bailey approved that subzeros can still be fun and lovely with his newest menswear collection.

Two streams are dominating the menswear industry. One is those like Saint Laurent Paris, Givenchy, and Lanvin that are consistently pushing the boundaries between art and fashion as well as feminine and masculinity. The other side is those like Louis Vuitton, Bottega Venetta, and Tom Ford that are holding luxury and sophistication as priorities. However, other prestigious brands  like Prada,  Versace, and Thom Browne are really holding their unique positions interpreting what well-dressed men should look like. But still, brands like Salvatore Ferragamo, Cavalli, and Burberry have been struggling to decide if they should go left to become dark and gothic or go right to become bubbly and smooth. After what Burberry has showcased during LCM this time, it definitely is a declaration that Burberry will stand aside with Louis Vuitton, Bottega Venetta, and Tom Ford to battle with Ralph Lauren, Armani, and Dior Homme.

Photo Courtesy of http://www.style.com/

Xander Zhou F/W 2014: Channelling Pope Francis with Catholic Boarding School

Xander Zhou, the designer from China, brought us another delicious collection of silhouettes, textures and loads of fun. Zhou’s designs are always effused with fascinating Europeaness and splendid, occasionally weird, details. This newly showcased collection during LCM opened with fabulous heavy coats with flavors channelling some Pope Francis’ simplicity without being so dull. Unsurprisingly, the pieces streamed to become something more avant-garde without being overwhelming. The sportive attitude has been blended well with loose and classic fittings. People might also see some collegiate touches here and there. Definitely, a collection can provide loads of fun for layers.

Photo Courtesy of http://www.thefashionisto.com/